Kimono Kitsuke

This is the first time that I wore kimono this year, and, although it's been almost 2 years since I first bought a kimono and wore it, it felt like the first time. Those of you thinking it's an easy job, have it all wrong. And so did I when I started.. I remember watching Memoirs of a Geisha mesmerized and thinking I HAVE to have one o' those garments.

It took a long time - almost 2 years - until I found eBay and discovered all the beauties there. And from there on it's history. I slowly discovered and learned specific terms of the items used on a daily basis when wearing a kimono.

The first term is kitsuke - the study/art of wearing kimono - comprising all the actions one has to take when dressing. but it's not just that; kimono are worn according to the design dyed/painted/weaved on them and they have to coordinate with the the long sashes called obi in terms of color and design. We'll get to that soon!

The next terms I got to learn were the names of the various items needed to have a good kitsuke: hadajuban - a type of Japanese undergarment, made of cotton; this is the first item you wear along with the split toe socks, called tabi; then we have juban - an extra layer, often quite made of silk, worn under the actual kimono, and over the previous mentioned hadajuban. The tricky thing is that you can use a hanjuban and susoyoke instead of juban. They serve the same purpose, except the former is a one piece garment, much like the kimono, and the latter is made of 2 separate pieces. Their purpose is to protect the delicate kimono silk from being in direct contact with the oily, sweaty human skin.

The juban is tied with a long cotton or silk cord called koshihimo. On top of that we have the datejime, a 10cm wide sash, tied around your waist to keep the juban collar (eri) in place. 

Then comes the kimono. There are various types: yukata, komon(pic 1), tsukesage(pic 2), houmongi, tomesode, furisode etc. I will take time and present each one separately, soon.

The kimono is, again, tied with a koshihimo and a datejime, to keep everything in place. It is very important not have any crease in your garment, and the hour-glass figure will not help you. A waistless body-type is the key. Ideally, the length of the kimono is identical with your height. So, if I'm 1.70m tall (you can tell I'm European, right? :)) my ideal kimono will be 1.70m long, at the very least 1.61m. And that's where trouble starts : the dreaded ohashiori - all of the extra fabric of the kimono is nicely folded and pleated around your waist, right after you have your datejime on. 

The final items are the obi sash (various types, again: nagoya, fukuro, maru, hanhaba, tsuke) wrapped around your waist and tied in different musubi (- knots), the most common being the o-taiko musubi (drum knot). That will be held in place by the obi makura (a stringed pillow), obiage (a scarf-like silk fabric which covers the pillow) and obijime a cord tied over the obi, for decorational and practical purposes (holds the knot tight in place).

So there you have it guys. I will get back soon and talk to you about types of kimono. I promise. Until then!